My First Calçotada

Cottage in Fontescaldes, where the calçotada took place.

Last Saturday I attended my first calçotada ever. Living with a Tarragonian for the past 8 years, I had heard about this intrinsically Catalan culinary event dozens of times. However, since they only take place in Catalonia in Winter, specially mid to late Winter, and we always travelled to Catalonia in late Spring, I had never actually ever attended one.

Laying the calçots over a wire mesh for grilling.

A calçotada, pronounced kal-soh-ta-dah, is a seasonal outdoor grilling party. It consists of two courses. First the course that gives it its name: calçots, followed by grilled meat, usually lamb chops and sausages. Calçots are vegetables best described as a cross between a green onion and a leek, and they are about the size of the latter. These bulbs are sweeter than the sweetest onion and only mildly spicy. In addition, their flavor has a creaminess that adds depth and complexity to the sweetness.

The cooks lay the calçots over the flames.

Calçots are grilled over and open wood-flame until their outer skin is charred. To eat them, this charred layer is pulled off, revealing the glistening, steaming hot inside. The peeled calçot is dipped in a romesco sauce, which consists of almonds, hazelnuts, dry bread, fire-roasted garlic and tomato, chiles, vinegar, olive oil, and salt ground together to a paste in a mortar.

The cooks test the calçots for doneness.

Usually there are about 15 to 25 calçots per adult guest. While they are being gulped down ferociously by the guests, the second course, the meat, is grilled over the hot wood coals and served right after the calçots are finished. The meal is usually accompanied by pa amb tomaquet, garlic-and-tomato-rubbed toasted bread slices, and copious amounts of red wine.

Guests crowding the calçot tray.

This calçotada was hosted by Josep Maria, one of Mar’s cousins, at his family’s country cottage in Fontescaldes, a small town between Valls and Montblanc. The town is just outside the wine Denomination of Origin Conca de Barbera and the young red wine that Josep Maria served, which is produced locally, was fruity and refreshing.

Almost done with the calçots.